Email me at jason@magpieyachts.com

Terms: WTC- water tight compartment ESC-speed controller LA-Los Angelese submarine Appendages-fins/rudders etc. RC-radio control Dynamic diver-powers under using fins Static diver- has ballast system Surface runner- doesn't dive-2 channel RC RCABS- Recirculated Compressed Air Ballast System

I've just finished the Blueback sub and Ive started on my first LA sub build. Here are pics of the moulds getting their assembly and release agent job done.

The above 2 pics show the hull with my Blueback (RCABS) WTC in it for a test fit.

Los Angelese Class Nuclear (RC) Submarine Building Page

Click photos to enlarge

I bought the moulds for these fiberglass LA sub kits. The LA is a one piece hull which has an integral sail/tower and a screw down hatch with a WTC compartment under it. That's moulded separately. See below. The boats are 990mm by 95mm wide and can be made surface runner-dynamic diver or static diver by the builders depending on preferences.

Click photos to enlarge

Today I removed it from the moulds and rough trimmed the edges. Here are some pics.

I flat sanded the edges of the hull halved and assembled the hatch parts.

I did more work on the hatch and it's lock bolt points etc.

The pic shows only 2 bolts but she'll have 2 more.

The hull parts sitting next to my Blueback 1/72.

RTV appendages mould full of casting resin.

USS Greenville Improved LA Class

To see Walt Berggren's LA Sub page detailing the development of this design, CLICK HERE

Bulkheads fitted. I made them from flat fiberglass sheet.

I'm putting a 3rd hatch bolt in the middle of the lid and strengthening the frame below to hold it down and seal it against the RTV gasket that it'll have.

I did the centre hatch bolt with an eye bolt set in resin and countersunk to look like a padeye on the deck. You turn the eye to unscrew it. I put a lot of strengthening under the bed and built up the base for the countersinking. I think with a bit of vasoline around the resin plug, it'll seal OK. I re seated the hatch with mould release and flowcoat too. The pics of that aren't yet taken.

I've spot filled the hull halves and resin coated them. I't time to start setting up the linkages for the rudders and dive planes.

The hatch is pretty much finished now. I'm moulding some different dive planes for the back. A bit more scale I think.

I started on the dive plane linkage and decided on the placement of the 2 lead acid batteries. The push rod goes over the batteries to the front planes.

One battery will go in the WTC as shown and the other in front of it.

Some more work on the wootsie today. (WTC) This rectangle frame is to support the 3 servos and is removable to allow hands to fit in the back of the wootsie to service the motor etc. It's much easier to fit all this gear before joining the hull halves together. The servos are for rudders, fore planes and stern planes.

More work on the running gear.

I put joins in the thinner rod near the servo end so it can be soldered or un soldered to get it in and to allow replacement of the Subtech seals etc. The join needs to be well away from the seal or it'll melt when soldering the rod.

I did some RTV resin casting to replace the planes with my own version.

I used Pinkisil RTV and Alumilite Resin

Water cooling for the motor as I'm running it on 12 volts it'll get hot. I saw this idea on scale models site. The feed and exit tubes will go to a scoop and a vent on the hull so the water will flow through.

I did a bit to the LA's WTC. I've altered the water cooling manifold for the motor to fit better and made a motor mount. She just needs the third control rod and it's tackle and an ESC, receiver etc, then I'll do the aft hardware for the rudders and planes and go go go.... (I love building boats, incase you didn't notice)

I made a prop shaft for her today out of 4m brass. The end bearings are brass tube and I put a  thread on it for the prop. It's in a straight line from the gearbox shaft so it should run nice and free.

I made a part bulkhead for the prop shaft bearing and fitted it with epoxy putty at the back and a tube for the motor cooling water to exit in front of the prop. I made a bit of a funnel for the pickup and mounted it in the bow to look like a torpedo tube.

I've done some more to the linkages and mounted the bow planes.

A tight squeeze! The aft cone has the prop shaft, cooling tube, dive planes linkage and the 2 rudder links and all their rods etc set up roughly at this stage. I think it'll all work out OK though. I'm making a cut-away section in the lower half at the back to allow the linkage to be removed for repairs WHEN it gets dropped! I've ordered a 6 blade simitar brass prop for her too.

I've nearly finished the planes and rudders and I've made a protecter bracket to save the prop.

I mounted the aft planes today.

I did some work on the sail today including finishing the cockpit and fitting the periscopes. The starboard one screws down onto the front battery via a cork pad with a brass threaded tube that has the antenna wire soldered to it for the RC. This is what I did on my Blueback sub with good results.

I glassed the hull halves together with an inch of glass tape along the inside and now some micro balloons and resin icing on the outside to fill her up smoothly. She's almost starting to look like a boat! I love this!!! If you're wondering what's the white stuff on the sail, it's foam to protect the detail while building her.

Today I finished off the hull joint and filled the outside bits where it was needed. I gave it a coat of primer to show me where it needs more filling etc.

These 2 show the front 'wet' battery

A coat of putty on her while I wait for the ESC.

One of my Magpie yachts blew a winch so i sent it off for repairs to RMG and I pinched the ECS and receiver from it for this sub. When the new ones arrive, I'll pay it back. I got her all going and tub tested her to get an idea how much lead a foam to use. I had planned to go 12 volts, but on testing, the ESC got hot even though it's rated to 12v, so I rewired her to be 6v. She seems to have plenty of grunt at that in the bath anyway. I might get her out to the lake tomorrow with the lead taped on for a test run.

I started painting her today with a few coats of primer, black gloss and flat black. She's now ready for the antifoul red underneath and the markings etc.

I finished the painting today. The pics tell the story.

I used the old lazer level to do the waterline masking.

I did some airbrush work with stensils to simulate welded patches etc.

Here's a pic of her with the hatches off for maintenance.

The second lake trial showed me that she needs work to get her reliably diving. I'll need to do some mods to the fore dive plannes and improve the hatch seal as it leaked too much. The video below shows a very short run before the receiver was drowned. VIDEO CLICK

Click Here for a video of her surface running with the Blueback in primer.

Pinkysil RTV 2 hatch gasket. I put vasoline on the lid before closing it and it works well with only 3 fasteners holding it down. It needs to be soft RTV. I found that a harder one I tried first was leaking. The Pinkysil is soft and works a treat.