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I started on anotherie! My first magie was a bit slow and heavy due to the need for extra ballast to counter the heavy scratch build of wood and glass etc. I decided to use a hull and deck that I layed up earlier for someone who didn't go ahead with it and make a new lighter replacement for it. This one will use the rig and winch etc from the first one and have a few slight modifications that I'll think of as I go. I always like to build like that and not stick to a plan. I find new ways to do things and test ideas as a pert of the projects.

I started by pouring the lead ballast into the keel using a cast iron pan to melt it and I submerged the keel in the sink full of water and let the tap trickle to cool it. I then fitted the propeller shaft tube and motor mounting. The pics show how I went about that.

Here's a video clip of the ballasting. CLICK HERE

I'm using a spare Graupner 500 motor to give her some 'Middlebrook Muscle' Please ask Steve for an explanation of these terms. (Steve's Pics)

Sighting through the tube to align the motor output shaft hole exactly.

12 May Started destroying the MP1 to pinch the sailing gear from it to go in MP2-2

I tidied up the motor mount a bit.

This is one of the new O-ring sealed plastic rudder posts from RYS. I put a clear tube under the tiller horn to keep the shaft and rudder up at the right height. The top of the tube has a screw down cap that squashes the O-ring to stop leaks. If you let the tiller rest on that, it unscrews it as it turns.

17 May I prepared the deck for fitting including fitting the mast step. I'm not reinforcing theis mast step like the last one, as the cabin top is a bit thicker which I did to make it strong enough on it's own. I also fitted the inwales around the back of the hull.

18 May Fitting the deck. On this one I decided to cut off most of the combing flange on the deck and keep the weight down up front. Since it has no formers or mast post, it's possible to get your arm in and reach right up to the bow to fit new fittings etc. I'll also be able to glass the inside of the hull-deck join with cloth and resin. This will make up for the narrower join area up front where there's no inwale wood.

22 May 06 I've faired her up and primed her now. She needs a couple of spot fillings for which I'll use a dab of flow-coat mixed hot. It's a great one for small chips etc as it doesn't fall out like bog does. I'll also coat the filler moulding around the front combing-deck joint with flow-coat too. That will seal up the bog nicely and prevent cracking etc. This first coat of primer is really just a guide coat to help find the missed bubble holes in the surface etc. I'll sand most of it away leaving any holes that I missed. There are always a few no matter how good a job you do.

23 May 06 I found a few spots that needed more fairing and applied some flow-coat which was mixed hot, as it's COLD weather now. It's now been re-sanded which makes about 20 hrs of sanding so-far on this boat! I want it to look it's best. The hatch cover is made from the piece of glass deck that I Dremel cut out and has a layer of Plexiglass type film which is flexible and seats snugly on the deck to keep spray out. This is instead of the smaller round hole with sticky-back covering it, that I used on the last one. (MP2) It allows me to get my hand right in to change radio crystals without breaking the seal on the rear hatch cover which will be stick-back Dacron film. The charge wire plug will be hanging from under the hatch and the hatch will be held down by elastic so I just need to pull it up and plug the charge wire in. No need for fiddling with re-sealing it. These boats get only rare splashes over the deck, so this should be ample. I've sailed the Magpie 90s in very rough water and know it will be!!

24 May 06 I've nearly finished the preparation for painting. Just a couple of tiny spots yet to do. She's rigged up again ready for another Scope boating day tomorrow at Cherry Lake.

28 May 06 I gave her a few coats of blue metallic and clear lacquer today. She's now ready for some graphics.

29 May 06 I started on the graphics today. It needs lots more work on the flames, but is coming along OK!!

31 May 06 I used my favourite method to mirror image the flames on the other side, which is: covering them with drafting film and tracing the outline and mark where it lines up with bow,keel etc. Cover the area to be painted with Parafilm tape and mask around it. Lay the drafting film trace over it inside out and line up marks. Run a sharp hobby knife around the outline. Remove the drafting film. Recut around the outline lightly so as to not scratch the hull. Pull out the film in the design and rub edges smooth. Paint it with desired colours to match the other side. Pemove all masking Clean up any mistakes or flakes etc. Spray clear over all to desired thickness.

16 May I'm having trouble with my camera so the pics are crap. I've fitted the RC and sailing gear and most of the deck's fittings too. Once I've done the mast step and reinforcements for it, I'll then do the inwales and attach the deck etc.

Next Scope model boating>>>>

The cuts in the inwale are to prevent them from pushing the hull out where they end. The deck,s (now narrow) flange starts just forward of these wooden strips.

After the Rebuild

She went very well in the light conditions and the balance was just right where I set the rig etc. I'm very pleased with the outcome. Click here for a 16MB video clip of her sailing and some motor sailing etc. Jason